This quaint little hamlet 140 kilometres north of Sydney in the Lower Hunter Valley is my secret weekend getaway. There’s nothing I love more than picking up a camper and heading up the F3 freeway, relaxation beckoning with every passing kilometre.
I’m not sure if it’s a psychological thing, but as soon as I turn off at the Calga exit at Peats Ridge, I visibly relax, drawing a deep breath and filling my lungs with the pure mountain air. It’s then a leisurely hour or so through picturesque countryside, lush horse studs and hobby farms flanked by dense eucalypt forest on rolling hillsides.
Wollombi rolls into sight like something from a Tom Roberts oil painting, a genteel slice of colonial history. Its main street is scattered with heritage-listed buildings, honeysuckle-strewn verandas sheltering antique galleries and coffee shops. St Michael’s church, built in 1840, is one of the oldest Catholic churches in Australia. Even the General Store has an irresistible olde worlde air.
The focal point of the town, however, is its pub. It’s impossible to miss – just look for the line of Harley Davidsons out the front! The Wollombi Tavern is the place for motorcycle enthusiasts to gather on the weekend, joining families and other daytrippers having a taste of Dr Jurd’s Jungle Juice.
The ingredients for this world-famous brew have been a closely guarded secret since its creation in the 1960s – but whatever is in this sweet liquor certainly keeps the punters coming back for more. Families, bikies and country folk wearing RM Williams all mix and mingle on the veranda of the Wollombi pub, the quintessential Aussie Sunday experience.
If you can drag yourself away from this oasis, there’s plenty more to see in the region – national parks, boutique wineries, craft and art galleries. Take a weekend to explore this hidden treasure and it’s guaranteed you’ll be back for more … or you will be planning your retirement here like I am!
ANGELA DE LEON
]]>A few months back we loaded up our six-berth Britz camper, hit the Monash Freeway, turned into the South Gippsland Freeway and then onto the Bass Highway and finally made our way to the island via Phillip Island Rd. Normally the trip would take roughly a couple of hours, take your time and you might find a few surprises along the way – including full scale replicas of meteorites that landed in the Cranbourne area in 1860 and Panny’s Amazing World of Chocolate where you can almost taste the Dame Edna portrait made of 12,000 chocolate pieces!
Pleasure island
Once on the island, don’t let it’s size fool you as there’s loads to do. In fact, the very fact it’s a small island only means everything is a mere five or 10 minute drive away … if not less. Setting up camp at Cowes Caravan Park meant we were right in the heart of the action being close to the main shopping precinct and planting our mobile holiday home right on the foreshore of the north side of the island. It’s within minutes to cafes, shops, the jetty. The activity highlights for us included the world famous Penguin Parade at night, a cruise to Seal Rocks with Wildlife Cruises and a 10 minute drive to Amaze N Things, an award winning venue boasting a giant wooden maze, mini golf and some excellent activities inside.
For driving adventure it’s a 7 out of 10.
For holiday activities it’s also an 8 out of 10.
10 words: Sun, beach, fish’n’chips, relaxed, convenience, family, marine life, chilly.
AUSTIN BONHAM
]]>For my daughter and I, a road trip to Port is always an adventure. After picking up a last minute deal on a car rental we hit the Pacific Highway for the crawl out of Sydney – always the worst part of the trip. But once we were freewheeling north, it’s smooth driving for four and a half hours before we reach paradise – Port, that is!
There are a stack of affordable places to stay in town, but our choice this time was the Sundowner Breakwall Tourist Park, located right on the Hastings River fronting the boardwalks with its distinctive colourful rocks. Talk about a room (or in our case, site!) with a view – where else in the world can you get a millionaire waterfront setting like this on a budget?
After settling in, the beach beckoned – our stroll along the golden sands of Town Beach rewarded by the sight of couple of dolphins, their fins silhouetted against the setting sun.
Into the Wild
Of course, that set the theme for our short break … wildlife. My daughter and I are both animal crackers, and there’s no better place to have close encounters with furry critters than at Port Macquarie. First stop the following morning was the Koala Hospital, a facility for koalas that have been attacked by dogs, run over by cars or suffer from Chlamydia or ‘wet-bottom syndrome’, a bacterial disease rampant in the koala community.
Located in one of the most dense koala corridors in NSW, the hospital is run entirely by volunteers and relies on donations to carry out its essential work. You can even ‘adopt’ one of the little fellas, the donation of $40 a year going towards koala research.
While you can’t handle the koalas rehabilitating at the hospital, you can have a more touchy-feely animal encounter at Billabong Wildlife Park. On weekends and during school holidays, demonstrations by animal keepers are an entertaining way to learn about Australian natives such as quolls, wallabies and even snakes. We loved the kanga enclosure where you can see bald little joeys poking their heads out of mum’s pouch; and my daughter even got to hold a gorgeous white dingo pup, which thrilled her no end.
High in the Saddle
We both are into horses, so a ride in the beautiful hinterland was high on our agenda. Bellrowan Valley Horse Riding, about an hour’s drive from Port Macquarie, is the only riding outfitter in the area catering to both beginners and more experienced riders. The horses here are well cared for and obedient, and I was pleased to see they offer some solid tuition to everyone before hitting the trails.
We may be both experienced horse riders, but neither my daughter or I have ever ridden a camel! Port Macquarie Camel Safaris runs 20 minute camel rides on Lighthouse Beach (Port’s southernmost beach) – loads of fun, glorious scenery and informative as well.
From our elevated position on Sandy the camel’s back (which feels a lot like a woolly carpet), we could see for kilometres up the deserted beach, the white sand the perfect contrast to the cloudless blue sky. There was a soft breeze, the sound of breaking surf … and once again, our dolphin friends paid a visit.
Now if that’s not heaven, I don’t know what is.
ANGELA DE LEON
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After flying into Mount Isa, we pick up our four-wheel drive camper and despite the kids’ pleas to don hard helmets and mining suits and venture underground (my idea of hell!) we press on, keen to embark on the first 300 kilometres of our journey. Signs stating “G’day” and “Welcome to the Min Min Byway” announce the theme of our journey; ahead lies a long flat stretch of tar, disappearing into infinity with nothing but scrub and red dirt on either side.
This is hauntingly beautiful country; massive outcrops loom from nowhere, red boulders stacked randomly as if by aliens; mesas reminiscent of thed Arizona desert catch the afternoon light, turning spectacular shades of red, russet and indigo; while wedge-tailed eagles hover in the thermals above, reading to swoop on roadkill.
The town of Boulia appears quietly, unassumingly, 300km south of Mt Isa. There’s not much to see in this sleepy outpost – a cobweb-covered collection of old farm machinery and dinosaur bones serve as a labour-of-love museum, there’s only one pub, and once a year a couple of camels plod around a dusty racetrack.
But what Boulia does have is a mystery – and a great one at that. The town is home to the legend of the Min Min Lights – inexplicable glowing balls of light that, over the past 150 years or so, have terrorised locals and passers-by. So widespread is the interest in this phenomenon that Boulia has created its own theatrical attraction, the Min Min Encounter, a $2 extravaganza incorporating animatronics and fibre optics that pays tribute to the art of Outback bullshit. Up to 200 people a day visit this museum – not bad considering there really is no other reason to come to Boulia!
To further explore the legend of the Min Min Lights, drive a further 73km east on the road to Winton to the site of the original Min Min Hotel, a ruin consisting of a couple of decrepit graves and a bottle dump.
Legend has it that this was once a roaring shanty, a den of iniquity so notorious for its murders and rapes that it was burnt to the ground in retribution. It was not long after this act of vengeance in 1918 that the strange lights began to mysteriously appear, chasing unsuspecting passers-by who chanced upon the ruins.
While this makes a fascinating stop-off on the way to Winton, we don’t have time to stick around to see if the lights make an appearance. Winton is still another four hours’ drive away; though stop-offs at Cawnpore Lookout (fabulous views across the rugged countryside) and Middleton Hotel make the journey pass quickly.
Winton is home best known as the home of Waltzing Matilda – it was here that Banjo Patterson wrote the famous song we all know and love. A museum dedicated to the song is a must-see attraction in Winton, as is the Qantas Museum, where you can learn all about the history of our national airline and even tour inside jumbo jets. Make sure you do the Wing Walk tour – it’s a fantastic experience and one your kids will remember for years.
The final highlight of our outback drive is a visit to Lark Quarry, the site of the world’s only known dinosaur stampede. The kids’ eyes light up as they hear the tale of the chicken-like coelurosaurs, who, as they were drinking at a lake, were chased by a hungry theropod, leaving a chaotic mess of footprints in the mud which have been preserved by time.
As well as being able to see the whole drama played out in the fossilised footprints, we also get the chance to hold real dino-bones and rocks bearing the imprints of the prehistoric creatures.
Lark Quarry is 110 km southwest of Winton – a day trip in itself. While you can do the trip by two-wheel drive, it’s pretty rough going on mostly dirt roads, but the journey is worthwhile to see a fascinating and under-appreciated part of Australia’s long history.
ANGELA DE LEON
]]>A shopping trip at Torquay should be first on your list and the best bargains are found in the warehouses located behind the main surf shop strip. Good quality wetsuits, fins, mask and snorkel are mandatory and easily packed in the camper. For the more adventurous, a surfboard is worth the effort too.
Stay on the Great Ocean Road from Torquay to Warrnambool. There are many great places to stop along the way but Apollo Bay and Port Fairy are highly recommended – plan to stay at least one day at each town. Once you’ve cut inland on leaving Apollog Bay and well worth a very small detour is the lighthouse at Cape Otway (12 kms off the highway) and stop off at the second cattlegrid and eyeball the trees – Koalas a plenty.
A terrific little (and not well known) camping ground is at Yambuk about 30km west of Port Fairy which is sensational, with a beautiful ocean beach and inland river. It caters for all water sports and all ages. Seafood lovers will be in heaven at Port MacDonnell, a popular and busy fishing port. The local seafood is well priced and very fresh. Camping at the council campground is recommended, with well priced camping, nice grassy sites and a short walk to the beach. Diving/snorkeling enthusiasts should visit the local Mt Gambier caves. Permits are required (bookings required prior to arrival via SA National Parks). Piccinini and Ewans Ponds are both world renowned for their spectacular formations, clear water and ease of accessibility. Try to book in and do it around midday when the sun is directly overhead, giving maximum light to these underwater delights.
For architecture enthusiasts, or those who simply enjoy panoramic ocean views, Robe will not disappoint. Camping at the local campground on the hilltop will provide awesome ocean views and five star facilities. We recommend you make a straight run for Kangaroo Island from Robe and catch the afternoon ferry to the Island. Check you have a full fuel tank, as fuel supplies are limited on the Island. If arriving late there are a number of nice campsites at Antechamber Bay with good wind protection and plenty of wildlife. Wheatons Beach has magnificent views of the ocean and plenty of designated camping sites along the coastal road. For those seeking a bit of fast action, the quad bikes at Vivonne Bay are worth a go.
No trip to Kangaroo Island is complete without a visit to Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch. Take the camera and get creative – the rocks provide a great contrast to the wild ocean. The office desk photo is easy to arrange here. The Island is abuzz with wildlife and don’t be surprised to meet a wallaby, koala or even echidna along the way. New Zealand seals and penguins also call the Island home. Be sure to have the camera on the ready for some great wildlife shots. Regular ferries run from the Island but it is recommended to book in advance (www.sealink.com.au).
Pack for all weather conditions, but expect awesome scenery, great food and meeting friendly people and wildlife along the way.
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The old adage “it’s a big country” certainly rings true in Far North Queensland, where distances between sights are great and the only way to experience them is by road. But that’s what makes the region north of Cairns such a great place for a driving holiday, with the open highway a journey of discovery and wonder.
When you’re deciding on a vehicle, keep in mind that the further from the Big Smoke you get, the rougher the roads – you may require a four-wheel drive if you are venturing north of the Daintree or up into Cape York.
The journey
After settling on Toyota Camry from Budget at Cairns Airport we began our trip north to Port Douglas on the Captain Cook Highway. This 68 kilometre stretch of road must be one of the most scenic drives in Australia, winding its way through Cairns’ beautiful northern beaches, with great vantage points at Rex’s Lookout and Yule Point back down the coast.
A couple of detours kept the whole clan happy – a visit to Hartley’s Creek Crocodile Farm had the kids awestruck at their first sight of massive saltwater crocs; while I was relished a coffee break at Palm Cove, an exclusive resort destination 25 minutes from Cairns.
Port Douglas is a great place to base yourself if you are exploring the north, with plenty of accommodation and a great central location. Stylish and sophisticated, Port Douglas glistens like a modern oasis, its al fresco restaurants and cafes beckoning travellers to stay and linger.
A rainforest to remember
But we had World Heritage listed rainforest on our mind, and once we’d settled into our accommodation, we hit the road again for the Daintree National Park.
Believed to be the oldest rainforest in the world at around 135 million years old, there are plenty of ways to explore this diverse and beautiful eco-system. A one-hour river cruise on the Daintree River is the perfect introduction and a safe way of seeing crocs up close; take a self-guided walk with interpretive signage providing a feast of information; or visit the Daintree Discovery Centre for an overview of the region.
Adventure lovers can ride a horse on the beach at Cape Tribulation, or dive off the coast where the Barrier Reef meets the rainforest clad hills. But arguably the best way to see the rainforest is on a zipline tour – the new Jungle Surfing Canopy Tours will have you literally flying through the trees, an unbeatable natural high!
ANGELA DE LEON
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ARE we there yet? Its a four-word sentence that has the ability to crack the nerves of the most patient parent. So, how do parents combat such a road trip trap when it comes to impatient children? It all comes down to cunning plans and effective strategies put in place before you leave, as we quickly discover over a nerve-settling beer, barbecue and banter with three experienced travelling couples in the Albury All Seasons Tourist Park (NSW) poolside rotunda.
After a gruelling four-hour trip from Melbourne, in which the “are we there yets” had flown fast and furious, one thing became blindingly obvious: whether it’s a weekend away or a six month trip around Australia, keeping the peace between the front and back seats can mean the difference between a trip of a lifetime or a rapid slide into fire and brimstone.
Sydneysiders Ross and Penny Simpson, travelling by road to holiday parks for more than a decade and now parents of teenage children, point out parents need to keep the age of children in mind.
“For kids under the age of 10 like yours,” Penny explains, “the element of newness and surprise is imperative. Make a bag of lucky dips – cheap toys from a Two Dollar Shop – wrapped in newspaper. Only bring out the lucky dip bag every hour or so. They love it, and it’s almost guaranteed they’ll behave in order to be allowed in on the next lucky dip run in an hour’s time.”
More modern parents, David and Sandy of Brisbane, are advocates for the power of modern technology. “Load up on iTouches, iPads, Nintendo DSs or portable DVD players. We have four kids and have a practical solution to this pricy option: a gadget between two kids; the older ones share the iPad and the younger two share the DSs or DVD player,” Sandy says. “Then they can swap and share the gadgets between them which is a challenge in itself at times, but on the whole it works OK for trips up to six hours.”
Then there are pearls of wisdom from old-timers and road-trip veterans Betty and Ken. They suggest more traditional forms of entertainment that baby boomers and Gen-Xers grew up with: I Spy, Number Plates and Truth or Dare. Add to those old-fashioned favourites Spotto (each passenger chooses a car colour and keeps tally of how many cars of their colour are seen whizzing past on the road), Cloud Canvases (spot an image in the clouds) and Who Am I (a verbal game of charades using hints) and the couple says the imagination comes alive and your camper or car becomes a mobile funhouse.
Each family is different, of course. All three couples agree the solution is in planning ahead how many stops you want to make along the way and whether those stops are at meal times.
Here are a few tips to help keep busy children occupied on the road:
Scott Podmore
(This article first appeared in Melbourne’s Sunday Herald Sun in October 2010)
An alternative touring route opened up a couple of years ago, – the Sydney to Melbourne Touring Route. It’s not a new road, just a new slant on familiar territory, opening tourists’ eyes to what’s special in the states of NSW and Victoria.
After meandering through Sydney’s southern suburbs, we diverted through the gorgeous Royal National Park, emerging at Stanwell Tops and the start of the spectacular Grand Pacific Drive. This new road skirts the spectacular Wollongong escarpment, with a bridge hovering above the pounding ocean and offering spectacular views down the coastline. I’m always blown away by the beauty of the south coast beaches, particularly where the emerald green countryside edges onto cliffs and beaches. Gerringong and Gerroa are particular favourites; and further south, I’m totally in love with the villages of Central Tilba and Tilba Tilba, famed for antiques, history and, of course, cheese!
As you edge towards the border, the beaches keep getting more and more enticing – Narooma, Merimbula and Pambula. Eden, once centre of the whaling industry, is now a great place to spot these marine giants; and make sure you stop off at Ben Boyd pub for a real blast from the past.
Over the border, Lakes Entrance is a great place for boating, fishing and beachside recreation. After this, the drive heads inland, emerging onto the Great Alpine Road at Bairnsdale. As much enamoured with mountain scenery as we are with beaches, we deviated a little for the Alpine villages of Dinner Plain and Mt Hotham before heading to Anglers Rest for a stop off at our favourite pub, the Blue Duck. Up the road from there is The Willows, a lovely rural property featuring historic cottages and brilliant horse riding through spectacular High Country scenery.
The touring route then scouts north again, reaching the mighty Murray River and the historic towns of Echuca-Moama. Here we jumped on board a paddlesteamer, reliving the romance of colonial days. Then it was south again through Bendigo, where more gold was found between 1850 and 1900 than anywhere else in the world. This history is all showcased at a family favourite, Sovereign Hill, our final stop before hitting the road to Melbourne.
It may have taken a little longer than the usual 10-hour haul, but the drive gave us new appreciation of some of the most fantastic parts of two great eastern states.
ANGELA DE LEON
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WITH commissions, surcharges and fees charged on money these days, it’s near-impossible to avoid paying extra when exchanging one currency for another. But with a little research and initiative, you can keep a cap on these annoying expenses when travelling.
Australia’s leading finance commentator, Terry McCrann, says it’s important to not obsess over “relatively meaningless points”. “For example, if you get US97¢ over 96¢ on $1000, it’s worth all of $10 – ($970 against $960),” McCrann says. “Even on $10,000 the difference is only $100 and that’s if you get a full cent. It’s more likely you’ll be chasing, say, 96.25 against 96, and that’s $25 on $10,000.
“The easiest and most convenient way is to just use your credit card. But the charges, and exchange rate, can be punishing, adding up to maybe more like $400 on every $10,000. The big plus is that you only take out of the hole in the wall in foreign currency what you need.”
McCrann also believes traveller’s cheques are probably best, but even they have downsides such as outlaying money upfront, carrying them around and therefore putting you at risk of theft or loss, they’re “clunkier” than foreign cash or a credit card, and the fact most of us end up with unused cheques when we come home.
Here are some important points:
Scott Podmore
(This article first appeared in Melbourne’s Sunday Herald Sun in February 2010)
INTERNATIONAL flights can wreak havoc on your body clock and travellers who have experienced jet lag after a long-haul flight understand only too well just how rotten it can make you feel.
Whether you’re flying for work or pleasure, it’s important to arrive refreshed and ready for your destination’s time zone.
How do you do this? Travel health expert Dr Deborah Mills, the author of Travelling Well, has a plan. The best way to lessen the effects of jet lag is to ‘‘travel west’’, she says. “Jet lag is worse when travelling in an easterly direction,” she explains. If you must travel east, Mills says the best option is to incorporate a stopover in the journey.
“Short power naps are good for general wellbeing,” she says, pointing out that even a catnap in a departure lounge is beneficial – though security might be an issue to consider.
Another common contributor to jet lag is a lack of rest in the days leading up to a long flight. “Two good nights sleep before you go is ideal,” Mills says. “If possible, have any big farewell parties several days before departure.” For best results, she says, travellers should try to arrive at their destination late in the day or closer to bedtime. “Don’t organise too much activity on the first day after you arrive,” Mills says. “Especially avoid collecting a hire car and driving on the opposite side of the road.”
One product creating an enthusiastic stir in avoiding jet lag effects is melatonin, a hormone from the pineal gland in the brain that controls the body’s internal clock. Mills says the body’s natural melatonin levels increase when it’s dark outside, and this causes the feeling of sleepiness. “A great deal of research is being undertaken on melatonin to clarify its role in treatment of jet lag,” she says.
Melatonin is available on a script in Australia, whereas it is available without a script in the US and outsells vitamin C. But it is not recommended for people who have epilepsy or take the blood-thinning drug Warfarin.
Mills also regards water as extremely important in helping to keep the body working more efficiently and decrease the risk of deep vein thrombosis.”Maintaining hydration increases physical resilience,” Mills explains.
“Travel often requires us to function outside the design parameters of the body.” There are many other products on the market that claim to alleviate the effects of jet lag. One effective Australian-made product becoming popular is called Flight Recovery. Mix a sachet and drink before boarding then have one every six hours to help stay hydrated.
Here are a few tips to combat those horrible effects of jet lag:
For more information on health tips for travellers, check out Deborah Mills’ book Travelling Well (www.travellingwell.com.au)
Scott Podmore
(This article first appeared in Melbourne’s Sunday Herald Sun in September 2010)